Click here to go to the question
and answer monthly index.
Click here to go to the question
and answer subject index.
# 14985 -
Remington 513T With No Date Code
Carl, Kingston WA
My 513T does not have a date code that I can find and cannot find a reference to date the rifle
by serial number. Any suggestions how I can date this gun? I bought this rifle as a teenager in the
early 1960`s in Baltimore, MD.
Answer: Carl, Remington first
introduced the Model 513T Matchmaster bolt-action target rifle in 1939 at a cost $29.95. The "T"
suffix is intended to indicate that this rifle is a target model, it was a moderately priced
alternative to the more expensive Remington Model 37 Rangemaster. Production of the 513T
ended in 1968 after about 166,000 rifles had been manufactured. The U.S. government
purchased 59,964 Model 513T target rifles for marksmanship training during World War II and
another 1,300 during the Korean Conflict.
Without a date code, you are going to have a difficult time finding a date of manufacture for your
rifle, try looking for the code again, it should be on the left side of the barrel near the frame.
If the rifle does not have a date code, you can narrow the time frame of it's manufacture slightly if
it still has it's original magazine. Count how many cartridges the magazine will hold, pre-war
Matchmaster magazines held seven rounds and post-war magazines held six.
# 14941 -
Shrink Wrap For Ammo Boxes
Hello, can you tell me what shrink wrap machine is best to protect bullet boxes and preserve
boxed ammo, and where do I purchase it. Thanks.
Answer: John- For plastic wrapping you have two options:
a. Use heavy clear plastic wrap and fold and tape like Christmas packages. Works well on
shotshells but a nuisance trying to do it for smaller boxes. Office supply places have rolls of clear
cellophane wrap that is used by florists and the like for wrapping up stuff. For about $10 you can
get a roll which will last forever. Nice and clear and thick and durable. Add scissors and some
scotch tape and you are all set.
b. Shrink wrap- better finished product, but more work and tools needed.
You need the shrink wrap which is sold on rolls either a continuous tube/sleeve type or a folded
over version. One roll will cost $40-70 but will last forever- I have been using the same one for
about 8 years.
Some office supply places carry this, or you can find it on line from lots of places- Google shrink
wrap supplies for all stuff you need.
You cut a piece of the tubing or folded wrap oversize, then take the box, put it inside the wrap
and use an "impulse sealer" to seal the edges reasonably close to the box. The sealer looks a bit
like a paper cutter, but the edges have heat strips in them covered with Teflon strips so that when
you close the "blade" it makes electrical contact, heating the strips and melting the plastic and
the excess is ready to pull off. With the tube, you can do one end prior to inserting the box, so
you only heat one seam after the box is in. With the folded wrap you have to do three sides, and
my impulse sealer is a bit short to do it all in one pass, so I have to do it from both ends, which is
a pain. If you can find a used impulse sealer that "wont work" it is probably just the Teflon burnt
through, and replacement strip and Teflon tape sets are about $20. New sealers run $150 up but
you can save a lot with a used one. They come in various sizes. I have an 8 inch job, but for
shotshells a 12 inch would be better, and of course can work on smaller boxes as well.
After you have the box sealed inside the sloppy fitted plastic wrap cocoon, you take a heat gun
(paint strip kind will work on low, or the wife's OLD hair dryer will work. Just blow hot air on the
cocoon and it will magically shrink to fit snugly. To avoid problems with trapped air inside, I
usually snip a tiny piece off a corner for air to escape. If you get the hot air too close, or too hot,
it will melt the shrink wrap, and have to start over- I lose about one out of 6 wrap jobs. John
# 14940 -
1942 Rifle Cartridge
I was woundering if you could tell me if 1942 riffle bullet is worth anything, the markings on the
bottom of it is mark 1942 z v11 D1 I think my husband step father brough it back from Germany
your respond would be appreciated Thank you ps only have one
Answer: Sir- This probably has some sentimental value, but to a collector it
really has almost no cash value. I would expect to see similar items at a gun show or cartridge
collector show selling for 25 cents to maybe $1 at the most.
It is a .303 British caliber rifle cartridge made in 1942. VII z indicates it is a "ball" cartridge
loaded with nitrocellulose powder and the maker was DI, Defense Industries, Ltd. in Canada.
These were pretty much the standard British infantry cartridge used during all of WW2. John
# 14983 -
What Year Was My Shotgun Manufactured?
Chris ,Bakersfield ,CA
12 GA -
What year was my shotgun mfg.
Answer: Chris, in 1964, the
Model 1200 replaced one of the most popular shotguns ever produced, the Winchester Model 12.
Model 1200 production started with serial number 100,000, however, records are no longer
available for Model 1200 shotguns that were manufactured before the end of 1972 (serial number
L739617). Due to the lack of serial number information, the most that I can tell you is that your
shotgun was manufactured sometime between 1964 and 1973.
# 14981 -
Jon, Monterey CA
US stamped on receiver, opposite side of serial Number. No other markings I can determine. Front
and rear sites removed, scope mounts installed. Given to me, told it was a ''modified'' sport
version Is this serial Number correct for a Springfield? If so what is the time frame in which it was
Answer: Jon, Springfield M1903 serial
numbers topped out at 1536285 on June 30, 1939, so your number is correct for a Springfield.
According to my references, your rifle was manufactured in 1932. Too bad that it was sporterized,
that really hurts collector interest and value. Marc
Sirs at Old Guns, I hope you can help me? I am trying to figure out which powder to use on
reloading my 45 colt long bullet. This is going into my 1858 New Army Conversion Cylinder. My
question is can I use regular black powder in the brass casing & how much if I can. Or should I use
smokeless powder & if so what is the correct amount of each for loading. Thank you in advance if
you can help.
Answer: Bill- Sorry, we cannot help with that
one. We know nothing about reloading, and any advice we might give could be dangerous, so it
would be best to consult a good reloading manual, or ask on one of the forums devoted to
Cowboy Action Shooting. John Spangler
# 14876 -
M. Ringle Gun
Steve, Smyrna, Delaware
M. Ringle -
Don't Know -
NO SERIAL NUMBER -
M. Ringle on the top of the barrel. As far as caliber, the hole in the barrel is about 9 millimeters
wide not including the depth of the rifling. There's not much information on Ringle to be had and
I was hoping you'd be able to point me in the right direction or give me some information on
Ringle, his guns, value and where I might find a home for this piece. I can send some photos if
you'd like. Thanks very much for your time.
Answer: Steve- I
cannot do much based on the information provided without a photo. In looking for information
on Ringle, I found some photos that I think you posted, showing a single shot percussion
underhammer pistol. Others may want to check them out here
I agree with the comments that this is a single shot underhammer pistol. Not necessarily a “boot
pistol” when it was made, but probably forced into that niche by modern collectors.
Value is pretty much whatever a willing buyer and seller can agree on, but there is not a lot of
demand for these, and the broken stock hurts a bit. But it is a bit of an oddity, and has “character”
so it may appeal to some folks more than I think. I would probably price it at under $500.
Pennsylvania long rifles always bring lots more than boot pistols, so it is hard to make a price
comparison between the two.
I think you are doing a great job researching on your own. John
# 14980 -
M1917 Parts Numbering
Should my Winchester M1917 have matching serial numbers on the parts?
Answer: Scott, the parts of M1917 rifles were not serial numbered when the
rifles came from the factory. I have seen some rifles that have their bolts numbered with an
electric pencil, but this type of thing was usually done in arsenals outside the US and it is a sign
that the rifle may be an import. Marc
# 14873 -
Winchester 94 Marked “N” Near The Trigger
Tom T Southlake, TX
N stamped under trigger Is there any significance to the N stamped under the trigger on this rifle.
All other markings appear standard.
Answer: Tom- I do not
know of any significance of that marking. If the 16 inch barrel is a special order feature that
makes it a very desirable gun. If it is post-factory work, then it cuts the value by a whole lot. If the
length from the face of the closed bolt to the muzzle is actually anything short of 16 inches, then
it is illegal to own. John Spangler
# 14978 -
Spanish M16 308
Naya, Brooklyn, NY
GC Crest Hi, I don't know much about guns, I received this rifle from a friends grandfather . It also
says CAI ST A VT M16 308W SPAIN along with other numbers in various places. What year do
you think it was made and what could be the value?
Answer: Naya, the Spanish M16 308 was a conversion of the earlier Spanish
Model 1916 rifle re-chambered for the standard 7.62 NATO cartridge in the 1960s. Although
their dimensions are the same, modern .308 civilian ammunition is quite a bit hotter than 7.62
NATO. I have been told by respected colleges in the gun business that the M16 308 rifles are
unsafe to shoot. There is no collector interest in these rifles and those who are foolish or
uninformed enough to fire them, are usually not willing to pay much more than around $100.
# 14868 -
Arabian Long Rifle (“ Camel Gun ”) Values
Holly, Louisville, TN
I own several arabian long rifles, also known as ''camel guns''. Do you know what they are worth?
Answer: Holly- These are fairly common on the
collector market, or at least the number offered for sale seem to exceed the number of people
eagerly awaiting the opportunity to own one (or more). As far as value, I see some very patient
and greedy souls with incredibly high prices marked on their guns. I see others at very modest
prices, but neither seem to sell very well. I recall a recent firearms auction where two failed to
meet a reserve price of something like $150 or $200 each, and they were fairly decent examples
of the breed. A lot are coming here with troops returning from Afghanistan, and most of those are
recently made and artificially aged items made for “the tourist trade” with no real collector value,
although fitting souvenirs of the dangers of making very real sacrifices of blood and treasure for a
tribal nation where everyone looks out for themselves and the religion approves of lying to
infidels. John Spangler
# 14977 -
Dreyse 1907 Parts
Ed Adairsville GA
Where can I find a BOLT HEAD for my Dreyse 1907? Seems they are easy to break. I do have
miscellaneous parts for the handgun also just not the bolt head. Thanks for you information and
Sorry, no we do not have the parts that you need. Recommend you check with Gun Parts Corp
(the old Numrich Arms people) at the following URL:
Gun Parts Corp has just about everything. If that doesn't work, try posting it on our free "Wanted"
page at the following URL:
# 14867 -
British No3 MkII .303 Bolt Action Rifle
Steve, Lighthouse Point, Fl
Pattern 1914 -
.303 British -
Buttstock: No. 3 MKII First, thank you for this invaluable service! I do not exaggerate one bit when
I tell you that I peruse your website EVERY NIGHT since I discovered it about a year ago! LOVE
IT! My recent acquisition of my first P14 rifle turned out to be a real special one (I think), due to
the No. 3 MKII cartouche on the buttstock. According to Stratton`s book, it's supposed to be one of
he rarer variants. I guess, first I'd like to know how to tell if the stock is original to the rifle. Also, I've
never seen another stock with this cartouche (even Google turns up nothing). Would just like to
confirm that it is what I want to believe it is and not a Bubba stamp. I can send a pic if you like.
Next, the serial number is very low and there are no dates on barrel or receiver. Why doesn't it
have the RE inside an oval on the receiver, as I have seen every other P14. Finally, what year
was it manufactured and is there any way to tell when it underwent. WRS? Many, many thanks for
your time & your expertise in advance.
Answer: Steve- You
have a pretty interesting gun there!
Please use one of the “click here to contact us by email” links on the main page and I will get
back to you on how to send some photos of this one and maybe I can help some more.
I cannot explain the absence of the RE in an oval on the receiver to denote Remington as the
maker, but am curious as to why you decided it was by Remington without that mark.
Unlike the U.S. Model 1917 rifles, none of the British Pattern 1914 rifles were marked on the
exposed portion of the barrel to ID the maker or date so that is normal. All the Pattern 1914 rifles
were made in 1916 or 1917, but there is not much value in narrowing down the date any more
than that, although production of 1.3 million rifles in that time by the three makers (Remington,
Eddystone and Winchester) was a remarkable accomplishment. As was the subsequent
manufacture of 2.4 million Model 1917 rifles between July 1917 and January 1919 was even
The Pattern 1914 rifles were a conversion of the Pattern 1913 rifle design from rimless .276
caliber to use the standard British .303 rimed cartridge in order to avoid creating chaos in
ammunition supply during a major war., when the .303 caliber Lee-Enfield remained the
The Pattern 1914 rifles were highoy regarded for their accuracy, and a number (mainly from
Winchester) were modified with fine adjustment rear sights or telescopes for use as sniper rifles.
The late Skip Stratton’s excellent page http://www.uiweb.uidaho.edu/stratton/Enhistory.htm has a
great explanation of the history of Enfield rifles.
In 1926 the British changed their nomenclature systems (about the same time the U.S. got away
from the chronological “Model of 1917” style and began designating types of equipment M1, M2,
M3, etc). In 1926 the Brits ordered that “the Pattern 1914 rifles were redesignated as the Rifle No.
3 Mk I, the Rifle No. 3 Mk I*, with both the (F) and (T) models carrying the Rifle No. 3 designation
as well.” The *indicating a slightly long bolt locking lug found on most of the rifles, the (F)
indicating the fine adjustment sniper and the (T) the telescope equipped sniper rifle. You can
have hours of fun and drive your gun collecting friends crazy by using the new designations
instead of “Pattern 1914.”
All was well until the outbreak of WW2 and Stratton explains:
“In 1939, the British government began removing P-14 rifles from stores and returning them to
service status, as specified in the Weedon Repair Standard (WRS). Work was done at RSAF -
Enfield and at a number of private firms, including B.S.A., Purdy, Greener, Holland & Holland,
and Paker Hale. Rifles were de-greased and inspected, and the long range volley sights were
removed. A number of new stocks were manufactured as well, the new stocks not having inletting
for the volley sight dial. Rifles equipped with these stocks are designated the Rifle No. 3 Mk II,
although all rifles converted to WRS [Weedon Repair Standards] specifications are sometimes
referred to as Mk II rifles.”
Thus your rifle’s stock is not “original” to the rifle, but is one installed circa 1939. These
replacement stocks made without volley sight or marking disc inletting often (always?) have a
neatly stamped “No. 3 MKII” on the right side of the butt.
I do not know how many were modified this way, but the number is probably only a few thousand,
based on their infrequent appearance on the collector market.
Hope that helps. John Spangler
# 14970 -
WW1 Revolver Serial Number Location
I have a WW1 revolver and was wondering where I could go to read a serial number. I know it's a
foreign gun because of the writing it has on it.
Answer: Kevin - if
you are unable to find one, your revolver may not have a serial number. In the USA, prior to
1968 there was no requirement to put serial numbers on guns, and most .22 rifles were not serial
numbered. It is not uncommon to see old WWI vintage revolvers that were not numbered, they
usually tend to be inexpensive types. Marc
# 14976 -
Unique Model D-2
John, Centreville, Maryland
Manufacture D`Armes Des Pyrenees
Unique Mod/D2 -
.22 Long Rifle -
4.5 Inches -
''Made in France'' stamped on barrel. The magazine has ''Unique'' stamped on the bottom. What
date was the pistol manufactured? Was it manufactured for the military or commercial market?
Where can I purchase another magazine?
Answer: John, The
Unique Model D was a .22LR target model. Military organizations may have purchased some of
these pistols for target competition but in my opinion the primary market that these were
manufactured for must have been civilian.
Unique offered the Model D in sub-variants D-1 to D-6, references indicate that the D-2 had a 4.5
inch fixed-barrel and open-topped slide, it could be ordered with a large selection of different
barrel lengths and target balance weights. Muzzle compensators were normally fitted on the
longer barrels. All Model D pistols had a ten round magazines, but the grips and sights varied.
Values in the blue book for Unique Model D pistols are in the $125 to $325 range depending on
condition. I do not know of a source for extra magazines, they may be hard to find. I recommend
you check with Gun Parts Corp (the old Numrich Arms people) at http://www.gunpartscorp.com/.
Gun Parts Corp has just about everything. If that doesn't work, try posting on our free "Wanted"
wanted page at: http://oldguns.net/submitwn.htm. Marc
# 14865 -
Starr 1858 Double Action Army Revolver Markings
Billy, Morehead City, NC
Army Revolver -
J over G below extractor, 11572 on cylinder, R inside C near trigger guard, B inside C on base &
butt of grips, C near hammer, undistinguishable cartouche on grips. The Starr logo & patent date
is nowhere on the gun. As you know it is normally below the cylinder but this one apparently has
never had one. What does this denote?
Answer: Billy- Good
question. I do not know of any logical reason why the Starr logo and patent dates would be
missing, other than Bubba removing them , but those are usually fairly clear and deep markings.
If Bubba removed them, there should be a small depression where they were which would be
easy to detect. Whatever the reason, I think it detracts from the value. John
# 14975 -
An ''S'' on Left side below barrel lock First off, I inherited this gun. Also I read a previous post of
something very closed to the same gun. However, I have a few questions not answered in that
post. It came to me with .32 rounds in it, is that safe? I haven't fired it and it doesn't look drilled.
What might the value be on a Fair Condition? Is it considered an antique? And is the serial
number any indication of the exact year?
Answer: I do not know
allot about Regina pistols, but I hope that I can help with answers to your questions.
The following is a quote which I copied from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms
website. An antique firearm is as defined in 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(16) the term “antique firearm”
any firearm (including any firearm with a matchlock, flintlock, percussion cap, or similar
type of ignition system) manufactured in or before 1898; or
any replica of any firearm described in subparagraph (A) if such replica —
is not designed or redesigned for using rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed
uses rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition which is no longer
manufactured in the United States and which is not readily available in the ordinary channels of
commercial trade; or
any muzzle loading rifle, muzzle loading shotgun, or muzzle loading pistol, which is
designed to use black powder, or a black powder substitute, and which cannot use fixed
ammunition. For purposes of this subparagraph, the term ‘antique firearm’ shall not
include any weapon which incorporates a firearm frame or receiver, any firearm which is
converted into a muzzle loading weapon, or any muzzle loading weapon, which can be readily
converted to fire fixed ammunition by replacing the barrel, bolt, breechblock, or any
References indicate that Regina pistols were manufactured by Gregorio Bolumburu of Eibar
Spain who was in business until 1936. Bolumburu's first pistol was a copy of Browning's 1906
design so your pistol must have been manufactured between 1906 and 1936, it does not meet
the 1896 deadline which would qualify it as antique.
As for the safety of the firearm, inexpensive Spanish firearms such as this, have a reputation in
general for making use of low quality, steel which may not be strong enough to handle modern
day high-pressure loads. I would NOT take the risk of firing it if it were mine.
As for value, collector interest in this type of firearm is very low to nonexistent. If I came across
one at a gunshow, I would expect to see it being offered in the $100 or less range.
# 14861 -
1837 Springfield Flintlock Musket
1837 Flintlock Musket -
What is this musket worth
Answer: Al- Your description really
makes this pretty much a wild guessing game instead of a thoughtful analysis. First, I have to
note that the caliber should be .69, not .50 as you state. I am going to guess maybe $150,
assuming that it is not full length with a 42 inch barrel any more, and that the stock has been cut
down as well, and that it has actually been converted to percussion and is in somewhat tired
condition. If I was sure it was actually still a flintlock, the barrel and stock still full length, and in
pristine condition with some of the bright finish mixed with very light patina and sharp markings,
then it might be closer to $2,500. John Spangler