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# 15137 -
.30 Remington Ammunition
Good day I am trying to locate 30 cal ammo for my Remington gamemaster 141, would you
know where to find these shells? Thank you. Lynn
Answer: Lynn- Sorry, we cannot help with that one. The .30 Remington
cartridge is basically an obsolete caliber now, and very seldom made. A few custom loaders will
make small runs from time to time, such as Buffalo Arms:
Good luck. John Spangler
# 15195 -
Historically Significant Mod 94 Winchester.
94 30 WCF -
30 30 -
How old is this gun? Or when was it made? How much is it worth? We were told that it was
originally sold to the Roosevelt`s? It is in EXCELLENT condition.
Answer: Your Winchester was manufactured in 1910. Winchester collecting is
a very specialized field, values in the blue book for standard model 1894 rifles range from $475
to over $4000 depending on condition. Values for models with special features can go as high as
$12000 or even more depending on what the special features are so it would pay to have the
rifle examined by an expert.
Any link to the Roosevelt family will increase value but word of mouth is not enough. Some sort
of documented evidence will be required. Marc.
Hi I am trying to find out more information about a pistol my great grandfather brought back with
him from WWII. The serial number is: 67443
Answer: Sir- Sorry,
we cannot help with that one. 7.65mm is the European designation for what we call the .32
automatic cartridge. I think I heard that the French used some Ruby pistols for police or military
use in WW1 or WW2, but do not know the specifics.
Google "Ruby 7.65mm history" and that should get you to a place with more info. John
26 Inches -
Stevens, Savage Arms Corporation, Chicopee Falls, Mass. U.S.A.Proof tested. Marble's
Gladstone Miss. U.S.A. How old is this gun?
Answer: The 325
was an attempt by Savage to market an affordable rifle which made use of many stamped steel
parts and less expensive materials to reduce production costs. It is rumored that initially surplus
machine gun barrels, left over from Savage wartime production, were used and that this is the
reason for the large and slightly out of place looking barrel nut because barrel nuts of this type
were used on some military machine gun models.
Savage marketed many of their economical guns under the Stevens and/or Springfield name.
Stocks for this rifle were made of a less expensive hardwood instead of walnut and most were
stained to appear the color of walnut. The stocks had no checkering or sling mounts. The trigger
guard/floor plate was made of stamped sheet metal with a small rounded area in the center for
finger notches on both sides that allowed grasping the magazine for removal. Magazines had
shallow horizontal grooves to facilitate grasping. The bolt handle was distinctive in that it was
designed to look like a European Mannlicher style butter-knife handle. The 325 was introduced
in 1947 and discontinued in 1950. Marc
R.E.(crown) top of grip & at bottom of handle crown w/ stamp letters drg? Handed down to me.
Wondered about its history and what the stamps meant. And of course it's value for insurance.
Answer: Holly, the pistol you describe was the
standard sidearm of the Italian Army before and during World War II, and is usually referred to as
the Beretta Model 1934. The R.E marking was the property mark of the Italian army and the R is
the Italian for royal and the E for army. Despite Mr. Mussolini ruling the country the Italian King
was still head of state. There will also be a set of Roman numerals on the left side of the slide.
Added to 1922 (the year Mussolini seized power) they tell you they year the pistol was made. For
example XX (20) would indicate the pistol was made in 1942. Many of these pistols came back as
souvenirs from our soldiers who fought in North Africa and Italy. To replace your pistol today
would probably cost you between $500 and $600. Marc
# 15135 -
Starting A Gun Shop
Me and a friend want to start a shop after we are done with college and I need to know how to
get guns to sell. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Starting a gun shop is not as easy as you might think.
First, you need a location to do business where gun shops are allowed by zoning. You need
business and sales tax licenses. THEN, you need a federal firearms license which takes about 2-6
months to get, and the BATFE will want to inspect your location and other licenses. You also
need business and liability insurance which can be expensive and hard to get. There may be
additional licenses and restrictions at the local or state level as well. Make sure your premises are
secure from burglary or robbery- bars, cameras, lighting, alarms, etc. You also need to get set up
with bank accounts and a credit card processing service, and most will NOT work with anyone
As far as getting guns to sell, if you are selling new guns (and competing with every other dealer
out there) you get them from wholesalers at a significant discount from list price, but often not
much less than some cut rate sellers might be charging, or what Wal-Mart might ask for them.
Some dealers (especially starting out) do not maintain inventory, but order items as needed for a
small markup. But, you still need the FFL and other licenses.
You may find that the profit margins are better on ammo and accessories than guns themselves,
and may bring back customers for small stuff and have them make an impulse buy on a new gun
they see when they stopped for a box of ammo. You need to keep up the traffic to the store.
If buying used guns, you can get them from trade-ins, or from individuals, estates or even other
dealers or pawn shops who are not interested in certain items. You can also work with lawyers
who handle divorces and estates and let them know you buy guns. You can buy guns from
individuals at gun shows.
To stay in business, you need to provide some service or feature that will bring customers in and
bring them back. This can be any combination of price, service, attitude, honesty, patience
(listening to endless stories that are often impossible or absurd), providing gunsmithing services
(special skills and more licenses needed) and your location. A growing number of gun sales are
to women, so a female friendly location, atmosphere and staff are plus. Surly attitude, lousy
service, dishonesty, not knowing your products, unpredictable hours, or a poor location can kill a
Remember, your profits need to cover cost of goods, rent, insurance, licenses, advertising, utilities,
mark downs for damaged or slow selling items, government taxes and fees, and last, but most
importantly, enough money to pay you a decent wage.
These days, some people would recommend setting up an on-line operation instead of a
storefront, and that has many advantages, but you need to be good at websites, and have a
market niche to draw and keep customers, not compete with the gun store mile from a customer's
house. Licensing requirements are the same.
Probably the best thing to do would be to get a part time job in an existing gun store to get a feel
for the business. You will find that it is 90% "business" and 10% "guns," so if you do not like
doing the business stuff, it may not be as much fun as you think.
Number on left side of barrel LH 5, I think its a Feb 1939. It was my grandfathers. Is this a
common gun It shoots, in good shape , is the value much. Thanks for your time. been in closet
for 40 years.
Answer: Sir- I agree that the LH 5 translates to
February 1939 date of manufacture, the first year of production. However, it is possible it was
made in February 1961 when the LH code would again work. These are shown in the Remington
Society of American page http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/questions/barrelcodes
The 511 was one of the 500 series of rifles which shared many parts for economy of production
costs and ease of manufacture. They are all good, rugged and reliable guns, but were made in
huge numbers, with about 381,267 of the model 511 alone, and hundreds of thousands more of
the other 500 series models.
As far as value, these are generally regarded as "shooters" more than collectors unless in really
great condition and totally unaltered. I would expect to find shooters at a gun show priced
around $100-150 and collector grade guns priced more like $250-350, maybe even a bit higher
for a really superb one. If yours has been shot a bunch already, why not take it out and teach a
youngster about gun safety and marksmanship, just like it was intended to be used when it was
made 75 years ago. Hope that helps. John Spangler
# 15203 -
James, Deming NM
6 1/2'' -
Herters insignia on grips, single action, 6 shot. What can you tell me about this
Answer: James, everything I have ever seen about Herters
places them in Waseca, Minnesota, from their sudden appearance in the late 1950s (but
claiming "since 1893" status as "makers of world's best" just about everything). The company
seemed to disappear in the late 1970s. My guess (strictly a guess) is that someone from Mitchell
bought the name and may have used it briefly. Herters' made an amazing variety of stuff.
Canoes, decoys, reloading supplies, bore cleaner, gunpowder, guns, stock blanks, and who knows
what all else. In their day they were sort of like a Cabelas' or Gander Mountain, but nearly
everything that they sold was all under the Herter brand name. All of this merchandise was
advised as "world's best, award winning, secret European family recipe", etc, etc. I have long
thought that collecting Herters stuff would be great fun, if you have a large enough storage area
to enjoy it all, and a very tolerant spouse.
Herters revolvers were all made in Europe, and are generally considered to be pretty good quality
items. Many were made in a proprietary .401 Powermag caliber that it is difficult to find ammo
for anymore. Value and interest in those firearms is pretty low. Firearms chambered in "normal"
calibers have a lot more interest and value. I have not seen many for sale, but would guess that a
Herters revolver would probably bring a bit less than a similar revolver that was manufactured by
Ruger. Unless, of course, yours is in like new condition and you find a Herter collector who wants
to pay big bucks for reasons that the rest of us would not understand.
Dad died recently and left it to me. Never heard of GECADO and was just trying to find out
something about it.
Answer: Barry, Gecado pistols were
marketed by the Dornheim company (Dornheim G. C. Dornheim AG, Suhl. Germany). Pre-war
Gecado pistols were low quality 6.35mm and 7.65mm 'Eibar' type automatics, manufactured by
SEAM (q. v.). They bore the word 'Gecado' in a diamond.
Post-war Gecado models were manufactured in West Germany and they included various .22
caliber revolvers and a blowback operated model much like the pre-war models except for a
difference in the location of the safety catch. Your pistol is a post-war model probably imported
some time in the 1960s.
Collector interest in this type of pistol is typically low, they often sell in the $50 or less range.
I'm looking for information on an over and under muzzle loading rifle. The name on it, and the
only info on it is "Frank Deland, Memphis, Michigan". He had a patent in 1875 for a reamer,
US161214, which he shared with Abner Harrington. The Census of 1880 says he is a gunsmith.
He was born in 1841 in Michigan and died there in July of 1912. The death record says he was a
I've checked everything I can find on the Internet and there is no information, other than two more
patents for lawnmower attachments.
Can you tell me anything about it? Are replacement parts available? Appreciate anything you
can tell me.
Answer: Marji- I applaud your diligent research
efforts so far. Unfortunately, I think you have probably discovered about all that is likely to be
found. The only think I can add is from Frank Sellers' "American Gunsmiths" which only notes the
name and location and a note that he was listed in directories circa 1895-1899.
I am sure that parts are NOT available. I have no information on Abner Harington, except that he
was apparently NOT associated with the gunmakers Harrington & Richardson.
As far as values, I doubt if there would be significant collector interest, although to a family
member it might be very desirable. As a very late muzzle loader by an unknown gunsmith, I
would expect the collector value to be very modest, a few hundred dollars at most.
# 15132 -
Advice On Buying Japanese Arisaka Rifle
I've been looking to add on a WWII Japanese rifle and saw one listed on your site. I don't know
much about these so what can you tell me about this one and the significance of a series 3(?). Do
you know what year it may have been manufactured? I have a C&R for
Answer: Sam- Thanks for contacting Antique and
Collectable Firearms and Militaria Headquarters.
The most commonly used Japanese rifle used in WW2 was the 7.7mm Type 99. These were
made by several different makers, some scarcer than others. They were also made in very high
quality standards early in the war, but getting progressively cruder as they cut costs and speeded
production (much like our M1903A3 rifles were less well made with some shortcuts compared to
pre-war M1903 rifles). The "last ditch" Type 99 rifles were very crude with fixed sights, wooden
buttplates, and a hole in the stock for a knotted rope instead of sling swivels.
Each of the makers was assigned a block of serial numbers, and these usually ran 1 through
99999 and then started over at 1 again, with each of these blocks called a "series" and assigned a
Kanji character to identify it, but usually referred to as a number. The Germans had a somewhat
similar system but only going up 1 through 9999 and then adding an alphabet letter at the end of
the number going to the next letter at the start of each new serial number block. And, they
started all over again every calendar year. American practice was pretty boring, starting at 1 and
just going up until whatever number was finally reached. However, where there were several
makers, (as with the M1 Carbine), each was assigned a specific group of numbers that were not
supposed to overlap. However, sometimes they erroneously applied numbers outside their range,
creating duplicates which were fixed by adding a letter before or after the number of one of the
makers so that each gun has a unique serial number.
With Japanese rifles, some collectors (at least at first) are content with one, and don't care much
about which maker or series, or if it is early, mid or late war. Others want one of each style, or
each maker, or even each series.
Besides the Type 99 rifles, there were a large number of 6.5mm Type 38 rifles used, and also
carbines (Type 38 and Type 44) and special rifles (early Type 99 which were long like the Type
38 but in 7.7mm), paratroop rifles with quick takedown barrels, and several sniper rifles.
Each collector decides what they want to do, and can limit their immediate shopping to that type.
However, as collectors often end up wanting to grow their collections with other variations, we
encourage you to read all the descriptions and learn as much as you can about all of them. You
may find something that is incredibly interesting that will start you off in an entirely new field, or
discover that Colt Single Action Revolvers hold no interest for you but Iver Johnson top breaks are
Meanwhile, if looking for a typical representative "WW2 Jap rifle" I would recommend that it be a
Type 99 in 7.7mm. Rifles with intact mums markings on the receiver hold their value and have
higher demand (and prices) than ones with the ground or defaced mum. If you ever decide to
sell, one with a good mum will sell more easily, so that may be something to hold out for. Some
of the makers are scarcer than others, but I think for a typical gun, condition would be more
important. Hold out for one with a lot of original finish and a stock that has not been messed with.
As far as vintage, I think a fairly early war example would be most representative. To me, that
would mean one with the Anti-Aircraft wings on the rear sight, or perhaps one of the transition
models where the sight still had provisions for them, but they were not installed.
There were hundreds of thousands of Jap rifles brought back by GIs returning from the Pacific
theater, and there are always a lot of them on the market, so don't panic into buying the first one
you see, unless you like it. There will be plenty more to choose from so wait until you see one
that you like, and are comfortable with the price. Prices vary widely, but the best examples will
always sell for more than junky ones. No one has ever regretted buying a nice gun, but many
lament the fact that they saved a few bucks but now want to get a better example.
Hope that helps. With your C&R it will be easy to purchase from us. If you see something you
like, send an email with the item number and we will see if it is still available, and send detailed
ordering instructions and hold it for you. John Spangler
# 15200 -
?? Winchester 1873 Single Shot ??
Brenda Oxford, MS
24 1/4 in. -
This is a single shot lever action rifle with a octagon barrel. It is marked with 32WCF. We were
wondering what year it was manufactured, and what caliber it is.
Answer: Brenda, The data that you have provided leads me to believe that
you have made a mistake. The Model 1873 was not a single shot, it was a lever action repeater
that Winchester manufactured from 1873 to about 1924. Model 1873 serial numbers start at 1
and go to about 702349, the number that you sent us (3045845) falls well outside this range.
Winchester's popular single shot rifle, was the Model 1885, but Model 1885 serial numbers start at
1 and only go up to about 151170. Please double check your serial number, manufacturer and
model. With the correct information we can possibly be of some assistance. You may also want
to check our Winchester Manufacture Dates section, there is a link towards the bottom of the
menu on the left hand side of the site. Marc
# 15192 -
Mini 30 -
30 Cal -
Universal H.ALEAH FLA on top of gun. The serial number had another mark on it, it could be
another ''1'' or an ''L'' in front of it. This gun looks to be never fired, what age is this gun? Is this a
military weapon? Do you have a value?
Answer: Matt, as a
whole, your carbine was never a military weapon, although some of the individual parts may have
been. Universal Firearms Corporation of Hialeah, Florida is best known for their copies of the .30
M1 Carbine, and M1 Carbine variations with different stocks and sights. Universal started out in
the late 1950s putting together M-1 carbines using surplus GI parts with their own receivers. They
operated from the late 1950s until 1983 when they were taken over by Iver Johnson. The
Universal Firearms facilities were moved to Arkansas in the summer of 1984. The blue book lists
values for most models of Universal carbines between about $100 and about $350.
# 15130 -
Winchester Model 94 Legendary Lawmen
I have a model 94 legendary lawman, S/N LL 04071 and cannot find anywhere of the age of my
rifle. It is unfired and in mint condition. Any idea of the year manufactured and the value of the
Answer: Mike- We do not mess with the commemorative
guns, but over at http://www.doublegun.com/roth.htm they indicate that this was made in 1977,
and they made 19,999 of them. John Spangler
# 15191 -
1917 DWM Luger
4 Inches -
Our family has inherited a German Luger we were always told was extremely rare but few family
members had ever seen it. It is now in a safety deposit box of the widow of the owner who brought
it from Germany during world war II. It has all matching parts #01, has the original makers
initials, the markings of the royal family, the 1917 date, and has 4 boxes (3 unopened) of the rare
black/grey metal jacket bullets created by Nazi Germany when copper was no longer
Answer: Curt, your Luger is a typical WWI military
issue model made by DWM (Deutsche Waffen u. Munitionswerke) of Berlin-Borsigwalde, Germany
in 1917. 1912-1918 dated DWM Lugers are the most frequently encountered WWI military
Lugers, around 60,000 were manufactured in 1917. The Germans limited WWI Military Luger
serial numbers to 4 digits. The serial numbers started out at the beginning of each year with
serial number 1, when serial number 9999 was reached a letter suffix was added starting with "a".
The markings on the right hand side of the receiver are WWI vintage military proof marks and
"Gesichert" (you can find it underneath the safety) is the German word for safe. Lugers are
designed so that the word Gesichert is visible when the safety is in the on position. This is meant
to signal that the pistol is safe. Your magazine is the correct type for a WWI Luger with a wooden
base. Later magazine basses for WWII vintage Lugers are made of aluminum. The small 01
stamps are match numbers, they are the last 2 digits of your serial number. Match numbers are
used to match the various parts that they are marked on to the pistol. All of the numbers on the
small parts should be 01, if they are not, value will be decreased.
Hi, I purchased an 1890 Gew 88 at Bagram AB Afghanistan. I believe it to be authentic.
Somehow it survived Turkish modification. I have actually fired 35 rounds through it.(Remington
Core-Lokt 8mm 170GR) The first five with a string on trigger like a cannon.(not a complete idiot).
The rifle is in excellent mechanical condition. I am really trying to figure out what German
military unit first used this. I found websites explaining what the barrel band markings mean but
cannot decipher the numbers. I have some decent quality images if you like. Bands have
following markings. Lower band 11.R.2.50. Band closest to muzzle 1.J.2.? last # maybe 61.
Would appreciate any help with this. Thanks in advance.
Answer: Lloyd- Thanks for contacting Antique and Collectable Firearms and
Militaria Headquarters and thank you for your service to our country.
The unit markings translate as follows:
11.R.2.50. 11th [???] Regiment, 2nd Company, weapon number 50. If it is a normal R it would
indicate Regiment (usually Infantry) or Recruit depot. If it is a "script" or italic looking R then it
would be a Reserve Regiment, usually infantry.
1.J.2.? last # maybe 61- 1st Jaeger [Rifle] Regiment, Company 2, weapon number (61?)
Normally an old unit marking is crossed out. If two different marks are present on various parts
NOT crossed out, then likely one of the parts with the unit marks is from another rifle. Most of the
parts can be matched by serial number, so that might help pick out the oddball part.
Jeff Noll's excellent book "The Imperial German Regimental Marking goes into great detail on
these, and lists specific types of weapons noted with certain types of marks. John