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# 11984 - Sporterized Krag
Neil, Kenyon, MN

Model 1898 US Springfield Armory - 30-40 Krag - 23'' ? - Blue - 156118 -

It has a redfield sight on it. Rubber Butt made in Cal. (Pachmaur Gun Works) How much is this gun worth? It is my Grandfather's. Has it been restored? I wonder because of the rubber butt. Thanks!

Neil, the modifications that you describe are more in line with what is called sporterization rather than restoration. Values for a nicely restored Krag may go as high as $750 depending upon how good the restoration is and how much work was done. Values for sporterized Krags are usually in the $150 -$250 range (sorry) . Marc

# 11972 - H-D Military DOM

Hi Standard H-D Military - .22 - Blue - 181231 -

I saw that you answered a questions concerning the manufacture date on another HD Military pistol. Can you tell me the manufacture date for mine, SN 181231? I have been searching for a site that provides the info but have been unsuccessful. Thanks in advance for any information.

Joe, my references tell me that your pistol was manufactured in 1947. The High Standard Collectors Association site may be useful to you, you can find them at Marc

# 12513 - Meaning Of ‘‘C.T.G.’‘ On A Gun Barrel

Blue -

What does C.T.G. mean on gun barrel?

Belinda- Most makers will mark their guns to indicate the caliber, or correct type of ammunition to use. (For example, there must be a dozen or more varieties of ‘‘.38 caliber’‘ cartridges- .38 short or long rimfire; .38 Colt short, .38 Colt long, .38 S&W, .38 S&W Long, .38 S&W Special, .38 automatic, .38-40, .38-44, .380 revolver, .380 automatic, .38 Super, and probably several others I forgot to list.) It is very common to see cheap foreign made copies of Colt or S&W revolvers, with no indication of the maker, but prominently marked ‘‘.38 S&W CTG’‘ in hopes that the unwary might assume that the gun was made by S&W instead of some Spanish or Belgian shop. These foreigners do not seem to be consistent in their use of abbreviations, so it may be found as ‘‘CTG.’‘ or ‘‘C.T.G.’‘ Perhaps the latter was a further attempt at obfuscation, hoping that some might some sucker might fall for an explanation along the lines of ‘‘S&W Company That makes Guns’‘ or something. It is important to read and understand all the markings on a gun to properly identify it. John Spangler

# 11962 - Killdeer Rifle
Bob, St Louis, Missouri

Western Arms Co - 22 - 18'' - Don't Know - THERE IS NO SERIAL NUMBER -

Top of barrel is marked: KILLDEER-MFG BY Western Arms Co -PAT. APPL'D FOR- My grandfather passed away and I found this mixed in with some other firearms. I haven't been able to find any information about this anywhere. Can you help? I can provide pictures if necessary. Thanks Bob

Bob, I was only able to find that Killdeer is a tradename that was used on single shot rifles made by Western Arms Company, c.1900. It is probably one of a huge number of firearms made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and sold through various retail outlets. This type of firearm falls into the category of "old guns" that no one seems to be interested in as shooters, but collectors do not want them either. Generally these were basic inexpensive simple guns which sold at modest prices and still have little interest or value on market today. On the retail market they usually sell in the $25-125 range depending on condition and general appearance for use as a "wall hanger" over a fireplace. Where there is any family history, we encourage people to keep these old guns for sentimental value. Most of these are not considered safe to shoot so you would be wise to have it checked by a competent gunsmith. Marc

# 12669 - History Of A Firearm- Past Owners

I apologize for using your site for this question. You don't have to answer. I am trying to find out if there is a system in place to check a make and a serial number of a particular firearm in order to find out where it has been. Some guns tend to have been passed around I bet. Thank you for any help in directing me to the right place.

Sir- A very good question. For historical purposes when dealing with older guns, it is possible to determine from most makers at least the date of manufacture, and in some case, where the gun was first shipped. This is done by "factory letters" from the maker, or the current holder of the maker's records. After that the trail gets cold fast. For many military arms, diligent research in the National Archives has uncovered records for a tiny percentage of arms buried in obscure reports which usually document a single incident in a service career that could have spanned decades in the hands of many different troops or units. That can be pursued on the Springfield Research Service page on our other site, For guns made after 1968, federal law requires that when a gun is made, the maker must keep track by model and serial number of where each gun was shipped. This also applies to the distribution network until it reaches the gun dealer, who is required to have the buyer fill out forms to prove they are legally able to buy a gun. Some states or localities have registration or licensing laws that require further paperwork to document who has what guns. Ostensibly this is to fight crime, but the criminals never bother to comply with such silly requirements, so they are a pure waste of time and effort. They do support a nice bureaucracy and allow politicians to claim they are tough on crime. Law enforcement agencies can tap into these records for investigative purposes, but Joe Citizen cannot. If a gun is reported as stolen the police agency filing the report is supposed to enter the information into the NCIC (National Crime Information Center) database. Of course the info entered is only as good as what the owner was able to provide, so data is often badly screwed up. If a gun is recovered, it theoretically can be returned to the person reporting it was stolen, if the cops feel like checking NCIC and go to the trouble of returning it. Also, they are supposed to delete it from the NCIC list, so that the legal owner won't get thrown in jail for possession of stolen property if they get stopped with it in the future. Sadly, this database is poorly maintained and full of errors that it reportedly is "not considered to be an accurate record" according to the Justice Department. Many law enforcement agencies will (reportedly) check the NCIC list for you if you call up and provide the serial number of the gun in question. I am not sure if the accuracy of their information will be all that helpful to you, but it is a possible source of information. Beyond that, you may be able to find a little history from the present owner about where they got the gun, but seldom going back any farther than that. In summary, there are no easy or reliable sources for information on the history of an individual gun. That is what makes guns with known (and provable) history so desirable to collectors. John Spangler

# 12668 - Hotchkiss 6 Pounder Hello

I've come across a wooden case fitted with brass hinges and handles and lock and also a brass plaque that reads 6pr Hotchkiss quick firing gun mark 1 no 499 accessories ,and would be grateful for some information on it-such as date, who used it, if its rare. I would be most grateful for any information you can give me on this item as I've tried everywhere else I can think of. If you can't give me the answers I'm looking for do you know of anybody who can. All the best and thanks for your time.

Sir- I believe that the Hotchkiss 6-pounder quick firing gun Mark I was a U.S. Navy gun, probably made or used circa 1890-1914. These may also have been used in various British Royal Navy ships either as a result of purchase or being included as part of a ship's armament when the ship was transferred to the RN at some point in our long alliance. They could have been the main battery on small Torpedo Boat Destroyers or secondary battery guns for larger vessels. I am sure there is some collector interest, as with just about anything ever made, for the right person(s). The number of people who collect this type material is probably rather small, especially if it is just the storage box without any neat devices inside. It probably held covers, tools, spare parts or the like. As far as I know, the only museum ship left from that era (from the U.S. Navy) is the USS Olympia, located in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. They may or may not want it if offered as a donation. It would probably sell on eBay as a nautical antique but I have no idea of the price it may bring. John Spangler

# 12687 - Stevens Little Krag No. 65

Stevens - Little Krag - 22 -

There is no ser. number on the gun. The barrel is stamped Manufactured by J.Stevens A%T co. second line says chicopee fallsmass U.S.A. patents applied for LITTLE KRAG 22 LONG RIFLE The gun is in great shape other than the rifling is shot out Was this gun made before 1900 and is it worth any thing, a little history would be nice to know, this gun was given to me buy an old lady who dint want in the house after her husband died. The barrel says nothing about what material it is, but I am thinking its nickel steel, any info on this very neat little weapon would be appreciated

David, Stevens introduced the Little Krag No. 65 in In March, 1904. The rifle was named after the U.S. Krag - Jorgenson service rifle for sales reasons. At the time, the Spanish-American War was still fresh in the minds of the populace and the name was meant to conjure up images of Teddy Roosevelt, and the Rough-Riders charging up San Juan Hill in the minds of young and adventurous boys.

The Little Krag was a single-shot bolt action rifle with a 20 inch barrel that was slip fitted into the frame and held in place by a screw that came up through the bottom. Finish was blue and stock sights were a bead front with a non-adjustable peep or open sight at the rear. In 1905 Stevens produced a telescopic sight designed especially for the Little Krag rifle, but it was not popular and production ceased the same year. The scope tube was 20" long, and magnification was 4X with a 7 inch eye relief.

When the Little Krag rifle was first introduced in 1904, the retail price was $5.00, the rifle was selling for the same amount when it was discontinued in 1910. The blue book places values for Little Krag rifles in excellent condition at $500, yours will be worth less because of the shot-out barrel that you mentioned. Marc

# 12696 - Re - Finished Luger

Luger 1918 - 9mm - 3.5 to 4 - Nickel -

DWM on toggle, Serial 5671 is marked on outside parts and 71 internal parts. 1918 on the chamber top. Toggle is checker and flat. Has white plastic grips I think their plastic. Holster with a ribbon in red, white, and black with cross bayonets or daggers on it. This is located near the flip cover Holster it in fair to good shape w/extra magazine. No markings on magazines. Luger is in very good condition. First, Would like to know what it could be valued at? Second, is their anyway a person can find out who it was issued to? Is this a presentation model? I ask that because I have never seen very many Lugers Nickel.

Clarence, your Luger is a typical WWI military issue model made by DWM - Deutsche Waffen u. Munitionswerke of Berlin- Borsigwalde, Germany in 1918. The markings on the right hand side of the receiver are WWI vintage military proof marks and "Gesichert" is the German word for safe. Lugers are designed so that the word Gesichert is visible when the safety is in the on position. This is meant to signal that the pistol is safe. Your magazine is the correct type for a WWI Luger with a wooden base. Later magazine basses for WWII vintage Lugers are made of aluminum.

When your Luger left the factory, the finish would have been blue and it had grips that were made from checkered walnut. I noted in the pictures you sent me, the tell-tale polish lines that were left by a buffing wheel when the pistol was refinished. Lines like this are indicators of a poor quality re- finish job. I suspect that the nickel finish and the white grips were added after the war, this seems to have been a popular modification for Lugers and other souvenir war-trophy pistols at the time.

There is little or no collector interest in re-finished Lugers especially those that have been nickel plated. I often see re-finished Lugers offered at gunshows in the $350 or less range as shooters depending upon the quality of the re-finish job. Marc

# 12667 - Green Ammo

Do you sell Green Ammo for 40cals or double 00 buck? we are on a army base and have to use Green Ammo.

Thank you for your service to our country. We only have collector ammo, not shooting stuff. The entire concept of "green ammo" is a bunch of absurd nonsense dreamed up by the environmental wick's, and cowardly accepted by politically correct idiots, including those who made the decision at the pentagon level. Not your fault, but you end up stuck with the results. Of course, the anti-gun crowd loves crap like this as anything that makes shooting sports more difficult to enjoy, or limits use of any type of gun, for any reason, at any location, is just fine with them. The fact that Islamic terrorists are working their butts off hoping to vaporize American cities with nukes is too hard for them to deal with, so they waste time and paper with silly rules about lead bullets that may harm the environment. Sorry, for the rant, but this is a topic that just ticks me off!!!! You might try Cabelas, or some of the big sporting good retailers. Ask a bunch of them, and that may indicate to ammo makers that there is (sadly) a market for this stuff and they may make it more readily available. Good luck. John Spangler

# 12666 - American Standard Tool Company Revolver

American Standard Tool Company - Revolver -

Looking for help with a pistol manufactured by American Standard Tool Company of Newark, NJ. You have to lift barrel up take wheel [cylinder] out to load. Holds 7 rounds, has cowboys and Indians engraved on wheel. Overall length is about 8 inches, no trigger guard. Serial number 14823. Silver coating coming off looks like brass underneath

Sir- Your pistol is one of about 40,000 made in the early 1860s, probably by Manhattan Firearms Company which also sold similar pistols under their own name. The design is very similar to that of the early Smith & Wesson .22 caliber "First Model" design, and all used the early .22 caliber rimfire cartridges. Although puny by today's standards, this was a huge advance over other pocket sized handguns that depended on loading with loose powder and ball and percussion caps, and were subject to misfires after being carried for a while, or in bad weather. Although modern .22 caliber ammo may fit in the chambers, it is UNSAFE to attempt to shoot these with any modern ammo. Flayderman's Guide to Antique American Firearms and their Values lists these at $150 in NRA antique good condition and $275 in NRA antique fine condition. The Manhattan made and marked examples tend to run a bit higher in value. Hope that helps. John Spangle

# 12665 - Parry Firearms Company, Ithaca, NY

Parry Firearms Company -

I have a double Trigger/Hammers 30" side by side shotgun. Serial #608, inside of receiver has patd NOV 3, 90. I am trying to find out more about the firearm and it's value, and the company. Is this a wall hanger or does it have some value. Firearm is in very good shape for it's age. Still has some color and looks to be case colored on the receiver. I work for Gander Mountain and nobody has been able to get me any information of this. Thank you for your time.

Gary- Frank Sellers' American Gunsmiths lists Parry Fire Arms Company as working in Ithaca, NY 1889-1893. He states they were "Sold to George Roth in 1892 after making a few shotguns." Parry is undoubtedly Edward George Parry of Ithaca who received patents in 1889 for a breechloading firearm; in 1890 for breechloading breakdown; and in 1896 for an ejecting mechanism. He also cooperated with Martin Bye and they received two patents in 1893 for a breechloading firearm and a safety device. Martin Bye helped found the Iver Johnson company in 1871, sold his interest in 1883 and went to work for Harrington & Richardson in 1900. I would consider Parry shotguns to be scarce, but collectors wanting one may be even scarcer. To most people this would be just another old wall hanger. There may be some interest among the cowboy action shooters, but I would not be willing to sell any of these as shooters. John Spangler

# 11959 - WWI DWM Luger
Ariel, San Diego, CA

9mm - 9mm - 9 Inches - Blue - 5486 -

Gesichert under the safety, on ejection port there is what appears to be a crown with the letter ''N'' under it, these same markings are on other parts of the gun. There is a calligraphy/cursive ''DNM'' on the top of the barrel. And the number ''86'' on a few places. I would like to find out whether this pistol is a genuine German Luger, and approximately what the value of it is

Ariel, all of the markings that you have sent me are consistent with a genuine WWI vintage Luger. The calligraphy / cursive script on top is "DWM". DWM are the manufactures initials, they stand for Deutsche Waffen u. Munitionswerke of Berlin-Borsigwalde, Germany . The crown / N stampings are proof marks and the small 86 stamps are match numbers, the last 2 digits of your serial number. Match numbers are used to match the various parts that they are marked on to the pistol. All of the numbers on the small parts should be 86, if they are not, value will be decreased. Gesichert is the German word for safe, it is visible when the pistol's safety is engaged. Values for Lugers range from about $400 to over $1500 depending on accessories and condition. Lately WWI Lugers have been selling a little slower than their WWII vintage counterparts. We may be interested in purchasing your Luger, if you want to sell contact us.

# 12748 - Marlin Mod 93
Joe Jim Thorpe, Pa.

Marlin - Model 93 - 38-55 - Octagon 26'' - Blue - 2041 -

Marlin safety , marlin model 93, 38.55, special smokeless steel. How much is this worth? It is in good condition.

Joe, Marlin introduced the Model 1893 to compete with Winchester`s models of 1886 and 1892. The Marlin 1893 incorporated a new locking-bolt system, two-piece firing pin and improved elevator. Rifles were offered in solid frame and take-down versions and originally chambered for 32-40 and 38-55 cartridges. Marlin later added 25-36; 30-30 and 32 Special chamberings. Standard Model 1893 rifles came with a 26 inch barrel, full-length magazine tube and straight-wrist buttstock. Standard finish was case hardened receiver, hammer and lever with blue barrel and magazine tube and varnished walnut stocks. Rifles could be special ordered with options that included pistol grip butts, fancy engraving and round, half-round or full-octagon barrels in lengths from 20 to 32 inches.

Values for 1893 rifles in original condition can go higher than $2500 depending on the condition, configuration and factory special options. Marc

# 12792 - Rem-Rand Frame?
Bob,Theodosia, Mo. USA

Remington-Rand - 1911A1 - .45acp - Standard - Parkerized - ING3660 -

left side frame=FIA, left trigger guard=#7,Right trigger guard ''H'', several other markings, too small to discern. Machine work on slide is rough, (typical WWII military rush work) The serial number does not fall within the peramaters listed for Remington-Rand production. Suspect that this is a ''parts gun'' but am not certain, and haven't seen a R-R recently to compare. It's kinda a puzzle, and would appreciate some information. Thanks. B Bob, if you sent us the correct serial number, the frame is probably an aftermarket replecement.

Bob, there are no U.S. military 1911A1 serial numbers in any of my reference books that start with the letters ''ING''. If the serial number that you sent us is correct, your frame is an aftermarket replacement. Marc

# 12664 - Taylor Fur Trap Gun

Taylor - Fur Trap Gun -

I have a 1922 (22 caliber) Taylor fur trap gun for sale. It is really cool because it has a hook were you place the bait and when an animal pulls the meat it shoots them in the head. Its a trap/gun, not a trap gun [as in trap and skeet shotgun].

Sir- I believe (although I am not 100% certain) that this falls under a regulation enforced by the BATFE that considers it the same as a sawed off shotgun and requires special registration paperwork to own or sell. You could check with the local BATFE office, but they will probably not have the faintest idea. My guess is that they will either (a) take the bureaucratic path of least resistance and tell you it is illegal, or (b) have to refer to their technical people for an answer. If they say it is legal and does not require any special registration, try to get them to put that in writing to you don't get hassled in the future, and have some protection if a different agent interprets the law differently and tries to throw you in jail. Verbal answers don't do you much good if they arrest you. John Spangler

# 12663 - Empire State Arms Gun

Empire State Arms -

I was given this gun by my father before he died. He said he got it from his father. > This a description of the gun. It has Empire State Arms Co. on the top of the barrel. There is an number on the bottom of the handle. It is 234506. The barrel tilts for loading and the grips appear to be some kind of black material with a textured finish. There is a screw that holds the grip together and it is in the middle of the black material with a sunflower like pattern around the screw hole. The gun is a small caliber. It holds five bullets. The bullet chamber has what looks like small bullets that rotate with each firing located behind each bullet chamber on the gun. I would like to know how old the gun is and something about its history. My father thought his dad used it in the Philippines but his memory had started to fade when he gave me the gun. I would also would like to know the value of the gun. Any help would be appreciated.

Janet- The only reference I found for Empire State Arms is for shotguns made for sale through Sears Roebuck Company. I suspect they used the same name on pistols made for sale by them circa 1890-1910. These "house brand" guns have little collector interest and most are NOT safe to shoot with any sort of modern ammunition. It very well could have been sold to someone headed for the Philippines and later brought home from there as a souvenir. Hope that helps. John Spangler

# 12662 - Winchester Model 1873

Winchester - 1873 -

I am looking for info on a rifle my father owns. It is a Winchester 1873. He says it says something like hepea??? Arms, New Haven Conn. King improvement patented March 29th 1866, Oct15th 1860 and the number is 80269 or 30269. He doesn't see so good anymore and he is too far away for me to go and look. Any help here is welcome!!!

Brian- He is about 90% correct in what he sees. The barrel is marked Winchester Repeating Arms, New Haven, Conn. Date of manufacture is probably about 1879-1881, so it is a good old one. Unless marked with another number (usually on the bottom of the brass lifter piece-on the part visible at the bottom of the receiver) the standard caliber was .44 WCF (.44- 40). The standard models included both carbines with 20" round barrels and rifles with 24 inch octagon barrels. Many were made with special order features and those are generally more valuable. The value is mainly driven by the condition. Either serial number will probably be considered "second model" and values for these typically run about $700-2,000 but we cannot be more precise about value without actually seeing the gun. Hope that helps. John Spangler

# 12796 - Is It Real?

Colt - Black Powder - .44 - 7 1/2in. - Don't Know - 364407 -

Nn one side of the barrel of this gun it says: F.LLI Pietta - made in Italy and on the other side it says: black powder only 44 CAL. on the cyl. are engraved ships it looks like with a colts patent, pat sept. 10th, 1850, it also says engaged 16 May 1843. the handle is made of wood, and I believe the trigger area is brass. the serial number is 364407. It also has its original leather holster. I am trying to find out if this gun is an original or a reproduction and how much it's value is.

M - your revolver is a reproduction, none of the originals were manufactured in Italy. Value is in the $150 range. Marc

# 12682 - Dreyse Parts

Rheinmbnald Abt. - .32 - 4'' Inside 5'' Outside - Rusty - 9801981 -

(<>) The left side of the barrel has a similar mark: (<>) I only have the upper part of the gun, with inside Barrel, spring attached to firing pin, outer shell of the barrel, can I get the rest of the part ? What kind of gun is this ? If you have advise that I can make the trigger portion, butt, magazine holder, and others to re-store this old piece.

It sounds like you have a Dreyse 1907. The model was designed by Louis Schmeisser in 1905-06, and was manufactured from 1907 to 1914. Slides for this model are usually marked "Dreyse Rheinmetall Abt Sommerda" on the left side but early models may be found with the inscription "Dreyse Rheinische Metallwaaren und Maschinenfabrik Abt Sommerda" and pistols manufactured in 1914 may not have the word "Dreyse" on them at all. Many 1907 Dreyse pistols were purchased for police use but there is little or no collector interest in then, values are in the $100.00 range. I would advise that the pistols is probably not worth the time or effort that it would take to restore it. You may come out better by selling the parts to someone who needs an upper half. Marc

# 12684 - 1934 Beretta Value

Beretta - 9 - Don't Know -

Beretta cal.9 m1934 1941xx with leather holster. My grandfather got this and its holster while serving in World War II. The story is it came from a German Officer. We are trying to get an appraisal on this but aren't having any luck at this point.

Cyndi, you have a W.W.II vintage Beretta Model 1934 pistol. The Beretta models 1934 and 1935 were Italy's main service sidearms during W.W.II. The two models were basically the same except that Model 1934 was chambered for 9MM Corto (380) while the Model 1935 was chambered for 7.65 mm Brevettata (.32 Auto). Military Model 1934 pistols were marked on the left hand side of the slide "P. Beretta Cal 9 Corto - Mo 1934 Brevet Gardone VT" followed by the date of manufacture. The date of manufacture was marked in two systems (except on late wartime production models), the Christian calendar (1934) and a Roman numeral denoting the year of the Fascist calendar which began in 1922.

Value for your pistol will depend on condition. Pistols that are in poor condition or that have been re- blued can sell for as little as $75.00. Pistols in excellent condition can go as high as $650. Marc

# 12661 - Dating WW2 German Rifles

Mauser - K98k -

I have a project byf 44 K98k Mauser rifle I am currently working on. Is it possible to find out what month a rifle was made from the serial number on the rifle? I understand the different codes on the k98s such as byf, bcd, dou. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

Willie- Richard D. Law's definitive study of the K98k rifle "Backbone of the Wehrmacht" has excellent tables showing the production numbers for each maker each year. From that it is possible to calculate the final alphabet suffix for serial numbers used that year. (Each maker started each year with 0001 and went to 9999, then started adding a letter for each successive series (0001a-9999a; 0001b-9999b, etc). You could assume production was spread evenly over 12 months and then figure which letters would have been used in each month. This would give an approximate date of manufacture. In 1944 the Mauser Werke AG, Oberndorf am Neckar (byf) made 1,434,219 K98k rifles and the highest serial number observed was 34233o (yeah, they started using 5 digits instead of the traditional four digits so you may have to do some fancy math to figure out the letter suffix pattern. We will let you do the math to figure the dates, but that is the best way we can recommend to get your answer. John Spangler

# 12659 - Ruger Pistol Date Of Manufacture

Ruger - 22 -

Can you determine age of a Ruger .22 caliber pistol by serial number, make, model, etc ?

I believe that information is available for free from the Ruger company website. John Spangler

# 12660 - Maxim Machine Gun Manual For Research

Right now I'm deeply involved in the research of the Walther Semi Auto Shotgun of 1921. Yes, Carl Walther made one from 1921 - 1931. It hade a toggle mechanism, similar downward toggle movement, he "borrowed" from good old Hiram Maxim ,who had so successfully introduced his Machine Gun (German 08/15: US 04/17). Now I have the very good book by Dolf Goldsmith, "The Devil's Paintbrush", which shows the function of the toggle, but not clear enough. I'm very familiar with the Walther version, but would like to see what system Walther copied. Now here the question: Would you have or know where to get a manual that clearly shows the make-up and function of the Hiram machine gun. Exploded diagram/drawing of parts which a guy in the field should have. Thanks in advance for your effort and best regards.

Fritz- Sorry, we do not get into the machine gun stuff very deeply. The British (and also US) Vickers machine guns are mechanically identical to the Maxim, differing only in minor dimensions and caliber, from what I understand. You may find more on the Vickers in English language sources, and it remained in British use well into WW2. Good luck with your research. John Spangler

# 12727 - $80,000 RG Revolver?
Eric, Wooton, Ky

Rohm GMBH Sonthem/Brenz - 22 short - aprox 2 and 1/2'' - Blue - 1051412 -

RG 10 on left grip and Rohm on right side grip, with double dots above the ''O''. German made pistol with strange marking on left side of frame in front of cylinder. My friend has one almost identical except the his had an eagle on the grip instead of RG 10. It was valued at aprox 80,000 dollars and I was wondering if mine is worth anything. Would love to know something on the gun.

Eric, if your friend is willing to pay $80,000 for RG revolvers, let me know. I can get a couple wheel barrels full of them for under $50 each. We can split the profits and both of us will be millionaires.

Seriously, I hope that your friend did not pay $80,000 or even $80.00 for his RG. This type of revolver was sold in the USA prior to the passage of the 1968 Gun Control Act, they are often referred to as ``Saturday Night Specials``. Rohm GmbH (RG) of Sontheim / Brenz Germany, produced cheap revolvers, starting pistols, gas pistols and alarm pistols for export to the U.S. during the late 1960s. I often see RG revolvers selling at gunshows for as little as $25.00. Marc

# 12726 - Luger Identification

Luger - 4'' - Blue - 1940 -

right side...655 in 2 places with German eagles left side..1913 and 13's on just about every piece top...1940 where barrel is in gun. 655 on barrel and ''sun'' on top, German eagle on side 42 and 13 on top hammer mech. bottom...under barrel 1913 and 8.81? it has 1913 in front of trigger where barrel goes in and what looks like a ribbon..or''''J''? I see no other marks. This was brought back from WW1 by a friends Father Can you identify what this was from? A maker? and a Possible Value for sale and insurance purposes Thank You!

This Luger was manufactured by Mauser-Werke, Obemdorf on the Neckar in 1940, the 1940 stamped above the chamber is the year of manufacture. The 42 stamping on the toggle is the German ordnance code assigned to Mauser-Werke, Oberndorf am Neckar, Germany in 1939. I am not sure what the ``sun`` marking is. The eagles with 655 below them are German WW-II Heerswaffenamt inspector's marks stamped on arms produced at Mauser Werke and the other eagle stampings are military test proofs. The 8.81 stamped beneath the barrel is the bore size in millimeters, all 9mm Mauser Luger barrels were stamped with 8.80, 8.81, 8.82, 8.83 or 8.84. Your serial number is 1913j (WWII Luger serial numbers were usually up to 4 digits long followed by a letter suffix). The 13 that is stamped on some parts is a number used to match those parts to the pistol.

Value for Lugers of this type can range from $500 to over $1500 depending on condition. If you send us some pictures we can probably identify the sun marking and give a more precise idea of value. Marc

# 12705 - Brown Gun, '' Almost Like New'' ?
Dan TorC NM

FB RADOM VIS EAGLE MODEL 35 - - 9MM - Other - 2400 -

It is one of the early vis it has the eagles on it show very little wear and it is a brown gun but it is a polish #A2242 I have this gun and have not even fired it and I do want to put it up for auction what should it bring I do have my ideal and it show all mill markings almost like new but brown and the eagles have wear on them but everything is crisp

Dan, I can see at at least two glaring problems with your plan. The first problem is your definition of ''almost like new''. When this pistol left the factory the finish would have been blue not brown. Bluing that is turning brown means the original finish is in the final stage of deterioration. Once the finish of a gun turns brown, the value drops considerably. If your pistol is brown like you say, it is DEFINITELY NOT almost like new.

The second problem is that you claim that this pistol is an early model. Early VIS M1935 pistols are considered by collectors to be those that were manufactured from 1936 to 1939 before the Nazi occupation of Poland. The serial numbers of pre-occupation pistols differ from those produced under Nazi occupation in that they are in the 1 to 49,400 range and they DO NOT have a letter prefix. Robert D. Whittington indicates in his book ''GERMAN PISTOLS AND HOLSTERS 1934-1945'' that German serial numbers on VIS M1935 pistols went through the complete alphabet (A through Z), numbers from 1 to 9999 being used with each letter, with the initial 9999 pistols having no letter, once. And that a second alphabet series was initiated which commenced again with the letter ''A'' and continued beyond the letter ''K''. According to information contained in Jan C. Still's book ''AXIS PISTOLS'', at best your pistol is a late German Occupation Variation Grade I, Sub variation 3, and at worst it is a Grade III which was made after the whole alphabet had been gone though once. Marc

# 12658 - Unfired 60mm Mortar Round

I have what appears to be an un-fired 60mm mortar. It was stored in a closet in my grandfather's house. It is in the original cylindrical container. After examining it, it appears to be still containing its charge, but there does appear to be a pin near the tip that would suggest a safety device. I would love some advice on what to do to ensure that it is safe. I would love to keep it for decoration on a bookshelf in my office, but before I do anything.....I need to know if it is safe. And if it is not, what can I do to make it safe? Please advise. Thanks

Jake- First, we will assume it is a U.S. round, which will be color coded. If it is marked HE or High Explosive, or is painted olive drab with a yellow band or yellow markings, it may be a live round, and hence very dangerous. If it is a light blue color, or black, and marked practice, inert or dummy, usually in white, then it is PROBABLY not dangerous, but I cannot guarantee that. There are other types and colors but those are the two most important for right now. These had aluminum or brass fuses at the front , usually marked with a designation and maker information. The fuses have a combination of safety and arming features to make it difficult for them to go off without being fired, but it is not foolproof. If the fuze can be unscrewed by hand to see if the inside of the projectile body is empty, then you can be sure that it is no an explosive round. If the fuze is too tight to unscrew by hand you should assume that it is live. Mortars have two "charges". One is the explosive in the main part of the body. The other is a propelling charge that has an ignition cartridge (looks like a shotgun shell) in the base and some bags, sheets or fat coils of propelling powder around the fins and tail. The main charge is dangerous, the propelling charges are relatively harmless. (I.e.- you might burn/blow off some fingers or your hand, not fill an area of about 50 yards radius with deadly shrapnel.) If you can send a photo or describe ALL markings on the shell and the shipping tube, I may be able to tell you a bit more. Meanwhile, do NOT drop or hit it, and do not attempt to drill into it or heat it up. If still in doubt, it would be best to contact the local police department on their non-emergency number (not the 911 line) and ask for a bomb technician to verify that it is harmless. Depending on the department they may send one guy in a car to knock on the door and look at it and fill out a report. Or they may call out the entire police and fire department with lights and sirens, call TV crews, etc and evacuate every house within several blocks. Hope it turns out to be harmless, but it is best to be sure. A guy recently died when a 40mm projectile he used for a paperweight exploded when it rolled off his desk. John Spangler

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